Uber, Rising costs, Low wages, and Limited land

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wow, woke up to another day of south swells. the waves were super fun this morning and very uncrowded. so stoked to catch some good waves. and so stoked to see Carissa Moore out ripping it up. she’s practicing for the last event later this month. the biggest contest of the year as she leads the woman’s ratings. i asked her “so how you feeling going into the last event?” she said “i feel good. and feel anxious.” then she caught a wave and did 5 off the lips. if i were a judge, i’d have given her a perfect 10 points for that ride. the girl is on fire and on her way to another world title.
sealwhale
free ride?
20091119-_dsc3639
the reason why there are so many homeless in hawaii these days is because of rising costs, low wages, and limited land. when i was growing up as a kid in hawaii, there would only be a handful of homeless people now, there are thousands. and the problem is only going to get worst because there is no solution. nobody wants to leave hawaii and i don’t blame them.
grass_home
since it’s been raining recently, the grass has been growing super fast. so fast that the city and county can’t keep up on maintenance. so we have some people complaining as usual. how could you complain about the green grass being too tall? gosh, don’t people have better things to do than complain? so one solution the city came up with is installing artificial grass on the sidewalks and other places. that is pretty sad to see where our future is going. very sad.
lead_large
uber is in full swing here in hawaii and over most parts of the world. uber drivers are raping customers, uber drivers are breaking into houses, and uber drivers are getting assaulted. so many uber problems recently. a great concept but is it really safe? well, the other night i was drinking tequila with Holli and the boys. it was time to go home and Holli called uber. we waited until the driver pulled up. i ran over to the passenger door, opened it, and said “hey you, you better get my friend home safe!” luckily she was a girl driver. she looked at me and seemed super scared! than i woke up the next morning thinking “what if the driver was a man?” then for sure i wouldn’t have let Holli get in the car. i just don’t trust the system and some of the drivers.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide