had a wonderful morning with Mr. and Mrs. Nomura-san. i’ve been surfing with this wonderful couple for the past few years and i’m super stoked to see them getting better and better. the waves were so perfect for us this morning!
then we got to hungry so went to eat a healthy sandwich followed by shave ice. i felt so sleepy after that.
then went back to surf in the afternoon with some hard core surfers. ended up surfing 2 rounds for a total of 6 hours. i’m so burnt! but so happy too!
just wanted to take a photo of the sea urchins we have here in hawaii. it’s different than the ones in japan. if you step on this, you will scream. it’s like a hundred needles just poked you. and the bummer thing is you can’t pull them out because it’s too brittle. the only way is to melt it out with vinegar or your own piss. so here’s my advice: do not walk on the reef!!!!
anyway, another full surfing day tomorrow and everyday for the rest of the week. so happy life!
