Cuba: The Old Man and the Sea

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i was out surfing the other day with a super good surfer. just following behind watching the action unfold. as soon as i seen him get low and bend his knees, i knew he was preparing for something big!
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then i see him go off the top. knees still bent the way it’s supposed to. so i knew he was going to make it.
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then bam!!! smack the lip and perfect landing. so stoked to see progressive surfing right in front of my eyes!
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last year, i read the book “The Old Man and the Sea” by Ernest Hemingway. it was an epic story of a Cuban fisherman’s tale. that very book inspired me to go to Cuba to see what the American Nobel Prize winner experienced living and writing in Cuba. so as i sit on the caribbean on an empty beach, i see an old Cuban fisherman walk right on by. i snap this photo and thought to myself, “wow, the old man and the sea!”
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and of course i will never sit back and let the moment pass by. i’m a fisherman and every fisherman has a story. so i get up and start talking to this fisherman. he spoke spanish, i spoke english. two different languages but understood each other clearly.
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he told me he was catching his daily dinner. just enough for his family waiting at home.
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and he would use these ugly looking worms as bait. different country, different style. i just love watching ocean culture at its deepest.
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he casts his pole again. i sit back down and enjoy the most beautiful caribbean day dreaming about writing a book someday.
“Why do old men wake so early? Is it to have one longer day?”
― Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide