Magic Mountain

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people ask me all the time about our missions, “how do you guys keep on
going?” here’s the answer. RESET. driving all day and seeing the
devastation can take a toll on your body and mind. the key is not to
let yourself fall into a dark place. keep strong, move along, help, and
find a peaceful place to reset. on the past mission 3, we found a
magical place just to do that. on top of a mountain on the end of
oshika hanto is one of the most beautiful places i’ve ever been too.
even though the roads are cracked, park is empty, and nothing around,
you can still feel the magic up there. the fresh air, wildlife, and a
view that could make any person feel good. we couldn’t help but wake up
at 4:30 am in the morning to get the power from the amazing sunrise. we
sat on top of the hill overlooking the ocean as a new day began. we got
that power and used it for the people of oshika hanto. that morning, i
couldn’t have felt any better, and couldn’t have asked to be in a better
place. yes, we are all traumatized in our own way, yeah, we all worked
hard, but yeah, mornings like this pay off. i can’t wait to go back there!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide