good morning. 6am and how was that full moon last night? awesome… so big and so bright… i totally spaced out, i should have went surfing. aaahhh.. well, once again, still some waves in town. seen a head high set at bowls with pretty clean conditions. a little morning sickness but like yesterday, it should get good as the day goes along. 12 guys out at rockpiles and about 18 at bowls. the park’s looking kind of crowded already. over 40 guys. where’s the spot yesterday? big rights. where’s the spot today? can’t tell you now. tell you tonight. i’m going to head out to shoot my friend from japan. surf, shoot, and get barreled. see you guys out big rights.. oops, i guess you know where the spot is today…. have a nice day…
hey guys, it’s going to be another night of live music at snappers. russ and ciara are playing there live tonight from 6-9pm in the lounge. don’t miss it….
**click here for directions to snappers @ discovery bay….
**matchi is one of the first guys i met when i went to japan. we traveled around this world over all these years and had some pretty awesome experiences. matchi’s from one of the most beautiful island in japan, called shikoku. i was there this spring and shot this clip of him talking about my board and stuff about hawaii. i asked him to speak in english so my friends in hawaii can understand what he was saying. because in japan, everybody already knows who matchi is. and if you don’t, i’ll give you 5 words that best describe him. kind, driven, funny, happy, good surfer, traveler, friend, shaper, surfer, and one of the warmest hearts you will ever meet. oh, that was more than 5 words. i guess it’s impossible to describe matchi in 5 words. he’s just too nice of a guy…. check out his interview….
