everybody asks me, WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE SURF IN THE WHOLE WORLD? my answer is always the same. JAPAN. it’s not just the waves, it’s the search. tracking typhoons, making the phone calls, planes, trains, automobiles, long drives, excess board charges, and lack of sleep. it takes time and determination to find that perfect wave on that perfect day. it doesn’t happen too often but when it does, it’s worth every second and every penny spent.
here we were rushing to get the boards into a little truck after flying into a little island far down south. going to islands in japan is fun for me because everybody is so nice and time moves by so slow. this particular island is one of my favorites and ever since i went there 7 years ago, i haven’t told anybody about it. my lips are sealed.
surf1st isn’t published anymore but back in the days, it was the #1 surfing magazine in japan. that magazine took me around the world and till this day, i’m thankful for that. this wave was a point right so long that when you kick out, your legs are like rubber. yes, this is japan!
