had an amazing lunch with Akane-san yesterday. i ordered my favorite beef stew noodle soup. love it!
passing showers means showers that just pass on by. i left my house and it was storming, but i knew it would clear up soon.
5 minutes later, it was totally sunny.
and when there is rain, there are rainbows! super stoked to see rainbows the whole time we were surfing.
so happy watching Akane-san getting better and better.
it’s unbelievable how good the waves were! the rest of the island had 30mph winds but not where we were. smooth and glassy perfect waves!
then i put Akane-san on the 9’6 because i knew she was ready for it. lighter, faster, and more alive. she loved it!
i caught a few waves for myself too. super stoked to be riding on the water!
when i woke up yesterday, my foot was still in pain. i could barely walk. hopping around all morning, hopping around on the beach, and once i hit the water, all the pain went away. it was like the ocean headed it. in fact, i totally forgot my foot was hurting until i got out of the water and walked on the beach. ouch!
another perfect sunset for another perfect day! i just love it!
