when i woke up early this morning and checked the waves, i knew it was going to be an amazing day! i still trip out how beautiful hawaii is!
my friend Shin-san and i have been surfing every year together for the past 10 years. and the cool thing is it keeps getting better and better each time. this morning was supposed to be flat. maybe a knee high set? but when i pulled up to the beach, my local friend said “hey kirby, “__??_” is going off! nobody out. you guys are going to score!”
we paddled out and my friend was right. nobody was out and we freaking scored! the waves where shoulder high and barreling! all the regular locals must have slept in this morning because we scored it for 2 hours straight!
i just kept on taking off and getting barreled and barreled. Shin-san caught so many good waves! i was so stoked to see him ripping! photos will be posted tomorrow night because i don’t want anyone to figure out where this is. why? because i know for a fact that tomorrow morning will be going off too and i want it all to myself!
a super wonderful couple Shin-san and Midori-san. when they told me they wanted to eat hawaiian food, i was so happy! i love hawaiian food so we went to Highway Inn!
the best hawaiian plate in town. i could eat this everyday!
then did some sightseeing. just another one of my secret spots. a place i use to hang out with my friends since high school.
went to ala moana shopping center again yesterday. business is booming in hawaii!
and last, i think the Miss Universe Pageant was a hoax. they did that on purpose to get media attention, and it worked out perfect. why do i think that? because Donald Trump is the president the Miss Universe Pageant. haha.
ended up taking the Tohoku kids surfing this afternoon. we had a blast. so a morning blast and an afternoon blast. a blast blast day. now i’m so tired. it’s 7am and i’m going to sleep because tomorrow will be another blast blast day! good night.
