i took Aoi for a surf this morning and the waves were super good! we paddled out before sunrise and got the golden moment on this rare south shore swell.
Aoi is getting better and better. and also surfing bigger and bigger.
speeding down the line and doing solid turns!
super nice off the lip from behind. i’m super proud of this kids progress.
i think i’m pretty strict as a coach. i give praise when praise is deserved. but at the same time, i’ll do anything i can possibly can to make you surf better, including raising my voice at times. when you learn to surf on your own, you tend to have bad habits. habits you can’t see or feel. i can see them all and it’s my job to make those bad habits go away one by one. and once those are gone, you are ready to become a professional surfer. pretty simple.
Aoi ended the session with a very good last wave. now he can go home, remember everything he learned, and apply it to his surfing every day until we meet again. and when we do meet again, he’ll be ready to take it up another level. great job today Aoi!
