it’s day 3 of the year and the weather and waves couldn’t have been any better. i woke up this morning and took Mayuki for a surf. nobody out, just her and me enjoying the secret side of hawaii. i caught so many waves and couldn’t have been happier anywhere else.
then i came back to town and took the girls surfing this afternoon. if you feel the cool north winds, you will see the nice clean waves all over the south and east shores. i was just about to get barreled on this bowls right and if you look good, there is a guy getting barreled on the same wave at rock piles left. yes, the waves were absolutely perfect today!
so fun watching the girls enjoy surfing so much. winter break is about over for these high schoolers so it’s back to the books very soon.
the golden moment. the waves were so good that the girls didn’t want to go in. it was getting dark and i was so hungry so i said “last wave girls.” i surfed for over 4 hours today and enjoyed every minute.
3 days of perfect weather with the perfect ending. i just checked my schedule and i’ll be in the ocean for the next 20 days straight. no break but i’m looking forward to it. then after that, i’ll be doing my first traveling of the year. to where? nobody knows, including myself. only the wind will take me there. can’t wait to see where she takes me!
8:45pm and it’s goodnight time for me. tomorrow all day in the water. more barrels and more smiles. sweet dreams.
