Jaws, Dolphins, and Surfing

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can you believe this is a 2 man submarine? yeah, it goes 40mph underwater and even jumps out. $80,000 for this? imagine sitting in the calm ocean waiting for a wave. then all of a sudden you see this mechanical JAWS flying straight for you? gosh, i’d have a heart attack!
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been teaching this young lady surfing for the past 14 years. i never ever pushed her to surf, i just told her, “if you want to surf, i will take you anytime no matter what.” yesterday she asked me to take her surfing and i did. the reason is because we are both the happiest in the ocean. and that’s a good enough reason for me.
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evening sessions are the best. no need drinks for happy hour here. the waves are free, and so is our minds.
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and i love to make trouble. and in surfing, the best way to make trouble is to spray someone in the face. haha.
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i can’t even count how many barrels i got this year so far. for 2015, that number must have been over 1,000. this year, i hope to top that.
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i’ve seen only 6 whales so far this season. i’m pretty sure the reason for that is el nino. but please don’t worry, they are coming! and yes, i will show you when that happens! but for now, let’s just enjoy the dolphins in the wild.
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two dolphins swimming towards Mayuki. this is nature, this is hawaii, this is my dream.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide