can you believe this is a 2 man submarine? yeah, it goes 40mph underwater and even jumps out. $80,000 for this? imagine sitting in the calm ocean waiting for a wave. then all of a sudden you see this mechanical JAWS flying straight for you? gosh, i’d have a heart attack!
been teaching this young lady surfing for the past 14 years. i never ever pushed her to surf, i just told her, “if you want to surf, i will take you anytime no matter what.” yesterday she asked me to take her surfing and i did. the reason is because we are both the happiest in the ocean. and that’s a good enough reason for me.
evening sessions are the best. no need drinks for happy hour here. the waves are free, and so is our minds.
and i love to make trouble. and in surfing, the best way to make trouble is to spray someone in the face. haha.
i can’t even count how many barrels i got this year so far. for 2015, that number must have been over 1,000. this year, i hope to top that.
i’ve seen only 6 whales so far this season. i’m pretty sure the reason for that is el nino. but please don’t worry, they are coming! and yes, i will show you when that happens! but for now, let’s just enjoy the dolphins in the wild.
two dolphins swimming towards Mayuki. this is nature, this is hawaii, this is my dream.