today was a very wonderful day. started out this morning with these 2 Fukuoka surf sisters. Asami-san and Yukari-san have a very special relationship with one another that i really envy. amazing girls.
the waves were perfect! we surfed, we laughter, and something crazy happened. not too sure if it was even real?? gotta sleep on it and see if i’m dreaming or not.
99 out of 100 japanese i meet never tried pho in hawaii. and 100 out of 100 i take to eat pho at Bac Nam love it. i must love it too because i go here 3-4x a week.
and 99 out of a 100 japanese don’t know where the best shave ice on oahu is. and 100 out of 100 love waiola shave ice. i must too because i go here 3-4x a week too.
then took Fukui-san surfing in the afternoon. as soon as he went into the water, he said “feels so good.” then after he caught his first wave, he said “feels so good.” and even when he wiped out, he said “feels so good.” Fukui-san hasn’t surfed i many years so getting back in the ocean made him realize how good surfing feels. he was super stoked!
we surfed until the golden time!
only a surfer knows the feeling. a feeling that we can’t even describe.
then watched the sunset at diamond head. freaking beautiful!
and the waves were beautiful too. perfect head high long open waves. a surfers dream for sure. the start of this year is too good to be true. so stoked!
