i was riding a wave yesterday and a freaking duck landed on my surfboard. omg! is this for real??? i’ve been in the ocean practically my whole life and the craziest things still happen. wow!
Asami-san loves to surf. she got hooked a few years ago and it changed her life. as she was explaining it to me, i was saying in my head “i know exactly what you are saying, i’m hooked too!”
so stoked to surf with these girls. both haven’t surfed a big wave before but now they have.
look how big this wave is! Yukari-san was charging! they both caught shoulder high sets like this.
good smile, good surfing, and good life.
i couldn’t decide if the morning or afternoon was better. they were both excellent! look how clean the waves, weather, and water is! it was a picture perfect day! and Fukui-san was enjoying every single minute and every single wave.
where else in the world would you rather be? i love hawaii. or should i say, “we all love hawaii!”
