good evening. went to check the waves this morning and decided to surf some place different. been surfing big rights and bowls the whole last swell so went straight to diamond head. had my video camera so took a short clip. can’t say where i ended up surfing because it’s kind of a secret spot. a spot where i can always run too on the most packed summer days here. and almost guarantee nobody out. just like today… surfing by yourself is good sometimes. a chance to get away from everyone and just enjoy the ocean alone. a time to let the stress out, and a time to appreciate life. ever had that feeling of sitting in the middle of the ocean where nobody is around for miles? looking at the sun, waves, fish, birds, and just nature? if you surf and haven’t tried it before, you should. just don’t ask me where to go because i won’t tell…. haha… anyway, check it out my little surf session today….
**by the way, heard some 3′ sets rolled in this evening. i’m waking up early and going surfing!!! see you out there…
