everybody asks me what i do everyday in hawaii. first, my main job is to surf. i wake up at 5:30, check the waves, and go from there. if the waves are going off, my job is to surf! if it’s not that good, i grab my camera, surf, and shoot something i think is interesting. photos? videos? fish? i want to capture everything. the waves have been excellent ever since i got back to hawaii so i’ve been spending 4 hours/day in the ocean surfing. as soon as the waves drop below 2′, i’m going diving. my boat is ready and so is my mind.
wanted to thank everybody for sending in the comments on the youtube video i posted the other day. it’s pretty easy for me because nothing is staged and nothing is edited. just roll the video and post. a lot of guys don’t like it when their not so good riding is taken but i don’t care. i take, i post, and that’s the way it is. most people that visit go-naminori don’t give a dam on how good you surf. they just want to see the positive vibe and the happy faces.
i have 3 other cameras charged up and ready to go. if you want to be on a video, smile. if not, run away.
anyway, going back to the computer work that has to be done. i realized that nobody has a better job than me and because of that, i’m going to work(surf) harder than ever. good day!
