good evening. surfed out!!! yeah, surfed 2x today and i’m completely burnt out. too much surf and too much sun. i’m tired and sunburned so need to stay in the air condition to cool back down. 1st session, bowls. paddled out, only 12 guys. paddled in, 40 guys. yeah, it got crowded pretty fast… but had a fun session as usual. can’t complain right? 2nd session, hooked up with jun jo and surfed the park. epic session… gosh, i haven’t said this in a while but, “I LOVE MY JOB”….
after i took a shower, i seen this car drive by. shit? rob machado… what’s he doing in hawaii?
after rob parked his car, he grabbed out his twin fin and headed out to bowls. i called him but he kept on walking by….
who ever you talk to, you will hear the same thing. “this summer in hawaii is the best”. yeah, i don’t remember when the surf was this consistent. getting surfed out in town is unheard of. and get this, 3 more swells on the way. one huge one… see that boat with the guy checking the waves with the binoculars? that boat came from izu, japan a few weeks ago. the voyage took 1 full month… that’s cool. gosh, if anybody gives me a chance to sail from japan to hawaii, count me in. i’ll cook, fish, clean the toilet, and do anything. i just want to go. that would be one of my dreams….
when i drove by diamond head to check the waves, i seen this cool plumeria tree. this one had nice colors. so i pulled over, took this photo, and drove away. the owner of the house must have thought i was a burglar or something…. sorry…
**took some cool video today. post it tomorrow morning… check it out….
**and last, i’m not really sure if that was rob machado today because he didn’t look when i called him. but if it wasn’t, they sure look alike.. haha….
