Shimanchu Time!

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gosh, when i woke up yesterday morning and seen this perfect backdoor barrel, i got excited! i think i’m due for a huge long barrel. can’t wait.
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if you haven’t experienced a boat trip before, you don’t know what you’re missing. i’m totally speechless at times like this. you would be too. in fact, we all were yesterday as we drove into the sunrise.
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and the different angles you can get of diamond head. totally amazing.
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not a cloud in the sky yesterday.
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always look forward to taking the girls out to the ocean. this is the place where anyone can relieve their stress because there is nothing to stress about.
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after swimming with the turtles and sharks, the girls dove down and picked up some sea cucumber.
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i haven’t tried hawaiian sea cucumber before but now it will be my first time. does anyone know how to make it??? going to try it tonight.
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and yes, the perfect end to the perfect day. 17 straight days of perfect weather starting from january 1st. totally amazing!
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last, really miss my friends in japan. it’s been so long since i seen everybody. thank you Miwa-san for the photo of you guys enjoying okinawa. i wish i were there. haisai!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide