Island Bodyboarder

353

it’s crazy how long and fulfilled a day can be. my new years resolution was slow my life down, but it seems like it’s getting faster and faster. here is half the story of half the day.
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wow, the waves were amazing this morning. Mana-san and i scored perfect bowls! super cool bodyboarder from okinawa so right from the start, i knew we were going to get along.
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this was her first wave in hawaii! perfect right into the sunrise.
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then she caught some really good lefts too. about 25 of them.
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spinning all over! we both know that you can only surf in okinawa on high tide, so that’s only 4 hours a day. she was surprised to hear that you can surf all day long here in hawaii. so no rush at all.
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awesome session Mana-san!
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then we were hungry so went for a loco moco at diamond head grill.
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i’m starting to like this loco moco a lot. thank you for the wonderful morning Mana-san. see you tomorrow bright and early for our super sunrise session!
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it couldn’t have been a more beautiful day than today. and i’ve been saying this everyday since 2016 started. look at the deep blue!
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then went to the yacht club to join Team Maki-san for an afternoon jigging session.
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we drove from waikiki all the way to hanauma bay stopping and jigging. along the way seeing so many whales! this one came really close.
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fished until sunset. have tons of stories to tell. wait till tomorrow please.
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i am so dark! been in the ocean pretty much all day again, 7 hours to be exact. just got home, ate dinner, showered, and i’m going to sleep right after i hit the “post” button. it’s 8:30pm and past my bedtime. waking up 4:30am to start another beautiful day tomorrow. maybe i’ll dream about slowing down. goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide