had an awesome day again! surfed 2 rounds with Koike-san. when i talked to him last night, he said “i want kirby boot camp.” so it was full on boot camp today. every wave he caught, i was on the side yelling like a sergeant to a solider. i can be very strict at times and sometimes i even feel bad. but if i don’t break the bad habits, the bad habits will live on forever. but once the bad habits are gone, your surfing will get way better. and so will your feeling and smile.
it was another perfect day. off shore, clean, and many waves for us.
then us military guys were hungry so it was off to eat a big plate of mexican enchiladas.
gosh, i love it here.
then we went to drive out to sandy beach to check out the waves and scenery.
then turned the corner at makapuu. unbelievably beautiful.
can you believe this is hawaii in january? crazy! after this, we went back to bowls and surfed another round. more boot camp and more improvements. i could see the changes in Koike-san’s surfing, and also his smile.
then this is where you are going to think i’m crazy. after a long full day of surfing, i went to try out power yoga for the first time. no, i don’t need the exercise, i just wanted to try something different.
it’s unbelievable how much yoga can help surfing. and also unbelievable how surfing can help yoga. it goes hand in hand.
after a full on workout power yoga. i was sweating, but my body was feeling great. got home just now at 8:30pm from a very long day. better go sleep because tomorrow we have boot camp day 2. i’m going to be tougher and after tomorrow, you will see a new born solider surfer! good night.
