i picked up Koike-san this morning and asked him “did you sleep well?” he said “yeah, i slept at 6pm last night and got up at 6:30am this morning.” i said “good, because we are going to surf the north shore!” he said “what???” and i wasn’t joking. it’s day 2 of boot camp and basic training is over. now we are going to the front line to fight! i wish i took a photo of his face jumping in my car thinking we are going to surf small waves in town. he was so happy until i mentioned north shore. haha.
approaching the north shore makes every surfer nervous. Koike-san was silent just looking at the ocean. i could tell he was nervous but i asked him anyway, “are you nervous?” he said “yes.” haha.
we pull up to laniakea and the waves were epic! perfect 4′ and flawless.
i didn’t want to watch the waves too long because i knew there would be some big sets approaching. so i said “hurry, let’s go!”
we were about to paddle out and i could tell Koike-san was so nervous. i still remember my first time out there and i didn’t even want to get out of the car. i told him “just sit right next to me and you will be fine.” not to sure if he believed me or not. haha.
some amazing creatures in the ocean. so much wildlife. i just love it!
and so many fish too. these fish were so close i could have grabbed them with my hands.
will get into our military surf session later, but after we had an awesome time, we went to eat hulihuli chicken.
only on weekends so we where lucky.
went to eat it at haleiwa while watching the waves. gosh, it was so beautiful there too!
Koike-san told me “i don’t want to go home.” haha. i told him “you’re not the only one that says that.”
haleiwa finally reopened to the public. they didn’t find any of the 12 missing marines. pretty sad to look out in the ocean and think about it.
the traffic is still crazy if you go to the north shore too late. i feel sorry for the people living out there.
i heard some good news last night! the new luxury condominium project they were going to build near ala moana got cancelled. they couldn’t sell enough units to they just stopped moving forward. i’m happy to hear that! maybe they won’t build anymore of them. instead of making small luxury condos that start at $1M, they should build affordable housing for normal local people. it just makes more sense. that’s what i would do if i were rich.
