omg, today was the longest day of the year for me! i left my house at 5:15am and headed to the north shore. it was pitch dark and cold but my body was warm and charged up because i knew i was going to get barreled!!! i get to pipeline/backdoor and it’s still dark. i pull out my 6’4 thinking it’s going to be a great day. i jump in the water and meet my friend Tamayo Perry on the way out. he recognizes me and i still don’t know how because it was so dark and all i could see was his teeth and afro. we get out and the waves were going off! 5′ sets and stand up barrels! i got one, then another one, and another one. it was empty so i didn’t want to go in. ended up surfing for over 3 hours and i was completely satisfied! so stoked!
there’s been waves all year long so everybody was burnt out. hardly any locals so i pretty much scored some perfect sets! took this photo as i was leaving. seen Derek Ho at the pastry shop right after and he asked me “where are you going to surf?” i said “hey D, i’m going home already.”
the drive home is always so happy. i’m heading back to town at 10am and i had the best surfing day of the year for me. i wish you could have seen my smiling face!
then went to grab Akane-san, Mayuki, and my gun and headed out to the ocean. i thought i’d either go to north shore today, or free dive today. why not do both?
so stoked to see Akane-san feeling way more comfortable in the open ocean. it was super beautiful out there!
then we grabbed the boards and headed to bowls for the evening session. and omg, the waves were perfect! this girl is getting really good really fast. so stoked!
surfed into the sunset. Akane-san asked me how i have so much energy. i said “i reset myself by going on trips frequently. so now that i’m back, i’m fully 100% revived and ready to live each and every day to the fullest! i’m so happy and i feel like a teenager now!”
i left my house at dark, and came home at dark. spent the whole day in the ocean surfing, free diving, and surfing. it’s already past 9pm and past my bedtime. tomorrow will be another full day of ocean activities! i love my wonderful life!
