all the broken surfboards in the rubbish can at off the wall. seen 4 more broken boards on the beach, 5 more at the billabong house, and i’m sure a lot more pieces of boards scattered along the north shore. it’s been that kind of year.
so happy to back in the hawaiian ocean. gosh, i could live here!
and when i was looking at diamond head yesterday, i thought to myself “wow, so dam beautiful!”
surfed into the sunset and it was one of those moments i wouldn’t want to be any where else in the world.
finally downloaded some photos off my camera so get ready for some more action from our philippines trip. here is Carter and I in the foam on the beach of Sabang! gosh, we had so much fun!
can i ask something? “what is this surfing world coming to???”
you are kidding me right? things like this make me embarrassed to be called a surfer. shame on you.
