wow! another full satisfying day in hawaii. beautiful water, beautiful weather, beautiful waves, and beautiful smiles!
started off early morning when i got up to check the surf. diamond head was the biggest spot on the south shore and it was still looking small. what should i do? where will the wind take me?
Yuki-san and Ayumi-san just got married so it’s the newlyweds first trip to hawaii. even though they wanted to surf a small fun wave, i thought in my mind that town was too small for that. so being the person i am of going with the wind, i had another idea. let’s go to the north shore!
i was going to take them to a small spot near laniakea but thought i’d just check out pipe/backdoor just in case. when i seen perfect overhead waves and not too many people out, i said “hey, it’s your lucky day! your first time and first surf in hawaii will be right here at PIPELINE!” you should have seen their faces! total shock! haha! i told them “hurry, let’s go get a few before it gets crowded!”
went back to the car, changed, and walked back to the beach. nobody was talking now. no smiles, just total silence. i was laughing so hard inside because i knew they were freaking nervous. but they know if you surf with me, be prepared to exceed your expectations! and i know Yuki-san’s father very well. in fact, for the past 24 years. so i know what his father would have wanted too. which was this. boy turns man.
nerve racking. haha.
on the way out, we seen Shun Murakami. hello to Team Wavy!
i did mention how shallow it was too. so shallow that i couldn’t even duck dive.
Yuki-san caught so many waves! the nerves were gone and welcome a new pipeline surfer. as for Ayumi-san, she went backdoor too! omg!
if you ever seen what lies beneath pipeline, you would freak out. and this is why people die out there.
guys like Kelly Slater raise their hands in the air after a good ride. so why not Yuki-san. it just shows how stoked you are at any level in surfing.
survivors. it’s time to smile. Matchi was out swimming getting some video of Shun.
back at the billabong house washing up and getting ready for the happy ride back to town.
gosh, it was the most perfect day for a first time pipeline experience. just perfect!
this is only part 1 of 2. scored again in the afternoon. too tired to type. going to sleep because we are going to dawn patrol it tomorrow morning. good night.
