Wake up Urashima Taro

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wow again! seems like everyday is a wow! the waves and weather has been absolutely perfect! perfect for us to enjoy the beautiful day yesterday. here is Akane-san on the diamond head lookout paddle. don’t you just want to jump into this photo?
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it was Pigu-chan’s first surf ever. and this was her first wave ever. she got up and surfed good all day. very energetic and very happy.
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paddling back out is always fun when a big waves comes. it’s like an amusement park ride.
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Pigu-chan on another one. taking somebody surf for the first time is so fun! i just ride on the side and laugh. laugh because i know how stoked they are.
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Akane-san only surfed for a few times but she’s so experienced already. she keeps on telling me that she wants to learn more about the ocean. this is the best way to learn about the ocean. just ride her and understand her.
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i was paddling back out and seen a nice set coming in. i yelled to Akane-san “GO!!!” she turned around and paddled into this wave. it was a beauty! her goal in surfing was to be able to surf by herself. that goal has been achieved.
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big smiles after a great afternoon of surfing.
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then it was part 2 to learning about the ocean. going underwater is probably the best way to feel the connection. some things i can teach, but most you have to feel for yourself.
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Akane-san going deeper and deeper each time we go diving. a newborn mermaid.
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Pigu-chan with the evening peace.
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i followed a turtle into a hole about 35′ deep. he just sat there and looked straight at me in the eyes. i think he was thinking “leave me alone.” haha.
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one of the bigger sized turtle i’ve seen. so beautiful swimming gracefully in the ocean.
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once again, i felt like Urashima Taro. someday i’ll be able to talk to a turtle. but for now, we just connect in our own way.
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a beautiful day ending with a beautiful sunset. thank you mother nature for picture perfect days in hawaii.
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then i went to meet my friends Holli and Carter for a beer. ever since i got back from my trip, i didn’t drink any alcohol. that’s 11 days alcohol free. my body was feeling pretty good until i woke up this morning. haha. anyway, we talked and talked and next thing you know, it was past midnight. i just love my friends and our super funny conversations. we can go on talking forever.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide