another full day in the ocean. spent total of 7 hours in the bright hot sun. started off in the morning surfing with Mishima-san. a super cool surfer that’s been surfing for 40 years of his life. super health and energetic!
there’s a little south swell right now. if you know where to go, you can find some shoulder high perfect waves. uncrowded and super fun.
i hope i look this solid and have this much energy when i’m 56 years old. another inspiration for me to surf forever.
couldn’t go to yoga today so i just did it in the water. after this, i tried a pose i never even dreamt of doing. and did it! so stoked!
i meet the most interesting people every day. Mishima-san loves surfing so much it makes me want to surf more and more.
then it was time for pho. and since i eat here 4-5x a week, i ordered something else off the menu. beef stew pho. so good!
thank you Mishima-san for the wonderful day! keep on surfing forever!
then i went to pick up my nephew that i promised to take surfing again. he did great again! just feeling more and more comfortable in the ocean. this makes me so happy! also took the 3 girls out again and watching them get better and better.
do you think we look alike? this is the Fukunaga bloodline. hope Noah keeps on surfing and keeps on smiling. once again, the best smiles i see from this kid is when he’s in the ocean.
i paddle in at 4pm and was thinking “ok, i’m going to go home and take a nap. yeah!” then, as soon as i reached the beach, i see this. to a normal person, this might look normal, or even fun. but for me, i see this as an accident waiting to happen. 4 chinese tourist on a wall mart blow up inflatable boat? with the trade winds blowing offshore, i knew this was a dangerous situation so i stuck around. kept my eyes on them and sure enough, what i thought was going to happen, happened. and ended up going home at 6pm. no nap, but it might have been worth it.
gotta work tomorrow morning so better go to sleep. super burnt and very exhausted from today. the most paddling and energy used in a while. only 8pm but lights out. good night.
