back to yesterday. just enjoying another perfect day in hawaii. keeping warm and protected by the sun with my custom Dove Wetsuit. the best in the world. thanks boys for the protection!
i took Ai-san surfing last year for the first time. now she can surf on her own! omg, she caught so many waves by herself today and rode it all the way in perfectly.
i was so stoked to see her surfing so good and every time she came back out, she had the biggest smile on her face. amazing.
it was Kuni-san’s first time surfing. it took a couple of waves for her to get her confidence level up but once she did, she surfed perfectly! so stoked to see her smiling all morning long.
newborn paddle in surfer? i think so!
thank you ladies for the wonderful surf session! so happy to see your long rides and bright smiles!
it’s so crazy how timing is everything. bowls is probably the most crowded spot on the south shore. yesterday was sunday and if you know and study the island weather like how i’ve been doing for the past 30 years, you can score memorable sessions like this. we paddled out and caught any and every wave we wanted. the afternoon score!
i’m trying to get this girls toes to the nose. why? because she told me that’s her dream. she’s almost there! next week her cousin Kelia Moniz is coming back to hawaii so i’m sure after a few tips from the world champion, she will definitely get there soon.
riding behind and enjoying this precious moment. the kind of moment i live for.
