good evening. another surf, surf, and surf day here in hawaii. went for an early morning session at a secret spot with my nephew isaiah. all i have to say is barrels, barrels, and barrels…. had a blast surfing and trading waves with isaiah. good to see him ripping and charging these days….
went over to the house and things were back to normal. after 3 weeks on the road living out of a bag, they must be stoked to be back home. gosh, i know that feeling oh so well….
then went for an afternoon session at kewalo’s. overhead and perfect. gosh, i forgot what a small day on the south shore looks like. the waves have been pumping and it ain’t over yet…. my face is so sunburned that it feels like it’s going to peel off.. [:????????????:]yikes….
how do you tell a good cover shot? i’ll tell you how. walk into a huge bookstore like borders. go to the magazine section and look for a magazine of your choice. my choice was surfer mag. while looking for it, something catches your eyes and you just can’t stop looking at it. so you grab it and check it out. understand? yeah, i was in borders yesterday to check out the new surfer mag. then this photo caught my eye. it was a bodyboarder magazine and i stared at this cover for 10 minutes trying to figure out what the heck??? i’ve never seen such a nuts photo like this in my life. i ended up reading the magazine and left the bookstore. and get this, i didn’t even check out the new surfer mag. i heard jeff hubbard is the photo editor for this mag. it figures. only a surfer knows the feeling… one of the most sickest covers ever…. i just hope that nobody photoshopped that photo.. haha….
and last. this girls daddy is going to war. the sad thing is that she might never see him again. remember, we’re still in war. and it’s in another freakin country. support our troops and bring them back home to their families…..
