we pull up to haleiwa and the waves were pretty big for Shiba-san. 4′ or overhead sets and lots of water moving. current and very challenging. so we pose for the morning photo.
then i start to explain to Shiba-san how to get out, how to fight the current, and where to sit and wait. i could tell he was super nervous. i was just laughing because i was here before as well as every other big wave surfer in the world.
we get out and it was so beautiful! so much different from ala moana. much more water moving, much more nature, and much more strength. haleiwa is the most dangerous spot in the world when it gets big.
Shiba-san waiting for a set. he was super nervous until he caught his first wave. then the nerves settled down a bit.
imagine me yelling “PADDLE PADDLE PADDLE!!! GO GO GO!!!” it must be so stressful for a surfer. haha. anyway, Shiba-san went and caught his best wave of his life!
then he paddles back out with the biggest smile! super stoked! i’m proud of you Shiba-san. you’re a great surfer and firefighter. hope your firefighter friends believe you surfed 4′ haleiwa and also met Mark Occhilupo in the same day!
seen Matchi on so many good ones! it was the 3 of us sitting in the top of the lineup exchanging wave after wave. no locals out so we scored big time!
good surfing Matchi. have a safe flight back to japan and i’m looking forward to getting my new boards. mahalos!
and i was so stoked to be surfing such good waves with so little people out. it’s been a while since i had a super good short board session like this.
