good evening. like a broken record “another perfect day of surf in hawaii”….. gosh, it’s been so epic. when is it going to get shitty so i can get other things done around my house. i need like 10 days to get things back up to date. the waves and weather have been too perfect to do anything else besides surfing. so surfing it is and surfing it will be. sorry to all of you who sent emails to me. make the waves go away and make it rain so i can get back to you. oh wait, flat waves and rain? good for diving.. haha… oh, everybody who keeps asking about the music in the videos. those are all from my collection on my ipod. if you really really want one of the songs, let me know which one and when i have some time, i’ll send it to you. no problem. my ipod is the bomb and we can sit down for hours listening to classic music going “ahhh, oohhhh, ahhhh”. know what i mean? it took years and years to get all the all time classics on there but it was well worth it… hawaiian, reggae, 70’s, 80’s, alternative, and a whole lot more…
**getting back to things. went to hook up with jun jo and shuji kasuya this morning. the waves? perfect. the lighting? perfect. check it out…
jun jo rips. he’s the kind of guy that can go to new york and not surf for months. then jump into a pro surfing contest and win the dam thing. that’s talent…
shuji kasuya rips. he’s the kind of guy that paddles out to any spot around the world and turns heads. a lot of girls heads. i’m starting to get tired of all the chicks telling me “shuji is so handsome, shuji is so cool, shuji surfs so good, where’s shuji now?” hey girls, what about me? haha… just joking…
to the left, to the left[:????$B”L(B?:]…. ever since i went to beyonce’s concert in japan, i can’t get that freakin song out of my mind. when i first saw this photo, “to the left, to the left” song came into my mind again. and i still can’t get it out…. “you must not know about me, you must not know about me”[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:]
this local paddled out with his single fin lightning bolt board and surfed like it was the 70’s. man, he had the best style….
and this is for all you bodyboarders out there. this is a drop knee power snap. i might have to bust out my morey boggie board from the 70’s and try to reminisce….
