tube time! haha! i’m always looking for the barrel no matter where i am. and yesterday, i found one! so happy!
cool off the top by Naozo-san! super smooth and super powerful surfer. and super cool shimanchu.
Miwa-san caught a few waves. stepped on sea urchin. went back to the boat because she was in pain. i told her, come catch and wave and you’ll be fine.” she came back out, caught this wave, and she was fine. haha. it’s crazy how surfing heals all wounds. super nice wave Miwa-san!
i surfed with Takahashi-san 3 times this week at secret spots. after yesterday, he renamed one of my spots. now, it’s officially called “Magic Point!” haha. here is Takahashi-san feeling the magic! so stoked to see him surfing so good!
going down a smooth wave, getting speed, and doing a turn on a glassy face is a surfers dream. it feels so dam good!
surf for 3 hours, come in and find cold beers in the cooler. a perfect ending to a perfect session.
found a new dive spot. there are schools of fish everywhere! look at that ball of fish!
i could shoot one of these with my eyes closed. fish everywhere!
this spot is about 30-40′ deep so it’s a good place to teach people how to free dive and spearfish. then after the session, you can take home your fresh dinner. can’t beat that!
oh, haven’t said this for a while “thank you all for checking out my blog. it’s all of you that have been keeping me going for the past 10 years straight every single day. i can’t wait when i have the time to look back into my own life. i’m sure there will be a lot of laughs!
