i get out of the water yesterday after a surf and check my phone. OMG! 31 messages and 879 emails? haha.
i swear my job is pretty dangerous at times. guys throwing their boards under waves, guys running me over, guys just putting me into danger.
and sometimes, i even get a surfboard in my head. i would be surfing the same wave taking photos and all of a sudden, a board would fly right into my face. but you know what? it’s just part of the job i love very much so i’m not complaining.
Chifumi-san in the morning light.
gosh, i miss eating lobster. i use to bring home these big boys all the time. now, just way to hard to find because everybody is killing the babies. such a bummer.
yesterday i get home from a very long day in the sun. i was thinking about taking a nap when i got asked very sincerely, “can you please take me surfing?” my body and mind was saying “no way!” but my heart was saying “ok, let’s go.” my heart won. good thing i went because the waves were super fun.
and was so happy to see Naozo-san on a good one at bowls! super smooth surfer!
and seen Miwa-san on a good one too. great evening session guys! and great dinner and drinks. hope you have a safe trip back to japan. nice memories in hawaii. see you again soon!
