Sweet SUP

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wow! this morning was amazing! went SUP’ing with Ken-san and Ayumi-san. super cool couple form Kesennuma in Tohoku. we left the harbor in the morning and the conditions were perfect!
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going out through the harbor was a first for me. was so easy and now i’ll probably do it more often. maybe even once a week.
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another beautiful morning indeed. what more could you ask for? new south swell, glassy conditions, and warm like summer.
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so warm that my camera fogged up in the beginning. shock! but you can more or less see how good the waves were. overhead and perfect!
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it’s unbelievable the workout you can get from SUP. totally inner muscle workout. my body is super sore now. forget the gym, go SUP’ing!
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we were so hungry from all that surfing and paddling so we went to eat a huge plate of mexican food. during lunch, we talked about the tsunami and things that happened in Kesennuma. Ayumi-san’s whole house and shop got swept away. Ken-san saw everything, even the boats and houses burning in the water. all the flashbacks of myself seeing all the disaster came back. i almost cried.
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drove by diamond head and watch the new south swell grow. perfect lines coming in from all directions. it feels like summer!
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then came home and smelt a fresh gardenia as i walked up my steps. so sweet!
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then found a present inside my house from Kosei-san. i had no idea what was inside.
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then when i took a bite, it was mochi! omg, it was so good!!! thank you Kosei-san!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide