seemed like Indonesia was the best spot to view the total eclipse.
so amazing! i saw one before in hawaii and actually got scared. it was super sunny and a beautiful day and all of a sudden, it got really dark and scary. i don’t like dark and scary.
omg, the waves were going off again today. solid 4-5′ and barreling! took out Kei-san in the morning and gave her the challenge of her life.
once you teach someone how to throw the board and swim under big waves, they can survive anything. Kei-san is now a pro at that. got some amazing photos from our session coming soon.
with these gusty 50mph off shore winds, the waves stand tall and barrel in places that normally don’t barrel. i swear i seen some waves at ala moana that looked like g-land today.
thank you Kei-san for a wonderful challenging day. awesome surfing and i’m so happy you survived!
went for an afternoon private solo session. on the way, i seen tourists getting blown down the street. it was like typhoon winds. haha.
new board, new board case, and new life. i couldn’t wait to get out there! i drove full speed out of the harbor. took me 1 minute from bowls to big rights. good thing there isn’t any speed limit in the ocean.
threw the anchor and only had 4 guys out. the waves started to pump!!! perfect timing as i watched so many empty barrels go unridden.
even concessions was going off. seen my friend Carter out there ripping! it was empty and the waves were as good as it gets.
when ever i go to big rights, all i look for is the barrel. so as i take off on my first wave, i place myself in the perfect spot.
then i get barreled and i’m a very happy man! i’ve been doing this out there for over 30 years and it feels better and better as i get older and older.
then do a turn. this was the first wave i rode with my brand new board. after i kicked out, i knew i had a magic wave and a magic board! so stoked!
tomorrow more south shore perfect waves. i’ll be in the ocean all day long. better go to sleep early. goodnight.
