College Surf Days

295

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it’s been very windy recently, but who cares? once you get into the ocean, it’s all nice and calm. paddling out with Shouta and Yabuta for their first ever hawaiian surf session.
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these kids have so much energy. had a blast watching them ride wave after wave after wave. Shouta never got tired at all.
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Yabuta had so much energy too. he kept on going and going. super long and perfect riding.
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gosh, i just love these photos. you can see the size of the wave, the texture of the ocean, the clouds, the sun, and the beautiful diamond head. nice ride Shouta!
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i remember when i was once a college kid enjoying my spring break. absolutely no stress and just having so much fun. hanging out with these kids yesterday made me feel the same way again.
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with the cold strong winds, you have to be pretty much hard core to even drive down to the beach. so if you see a surfer girl out in the water, she’s hard core!
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before we ate, they were telling me how they plan to play tennis in the afternoon. i told them “after you eat, you are going to get sleepy.” and right after we ate, they both started to get sleepy. haha. surf, eat, and nap. a surfers dream day!
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but first, took them to the best lookout in the world. and yes, they loved it! enjoy the rest of your vacation boys! see you on monday!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide