Surf and Free Dive Hawaii!

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another long day. left in the morning and came home at night. spent so many hours in the ocean again. non stop action and lots of photos to show. going to upload these and hopefully get to sleep before 8:30pm. tomorrow another long day ahead. can’t wait!
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every day is a different lesson for Asayama-san. one day i’m teaching him how to paddle out by himself, another day i’m teaching him how to relax, and today i taught him how to charge bigger! watching him catch so many perfect waves and surf it all the way in is so cool. then he comes back out with the very happy face. i just love it!
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also turning down the line very well. he can go left or right now depending on the wave.
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since my camera broke yesterday, i had to make up today with the happy faces!
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Asayama-san is so stoked on surfing and on hawaii. it’s going to very hard for him to leave this paradise island.
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been dropping the girls off in the mornings and they’ve been finding their own way home. it’s spring break in hawaii and these girls are super stoked!
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day by day, lessons are being learned. something these girls will never forget.
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Chifumi-san is the coolest surf mom! always supporting her son Aoi-kun by taking him to the beach everyday. something a lot of kids can only dream of. and if my mom could ride a skateboard as good as this, i would have been a cool kid with a cool mom. Aoi-kun is a very lucky boy.
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just loving the white sand, clear ocean, blue sky, and many surfer friends.
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and also loving the good food we have here in hawaii. the french dip sandwich from Earl is the best on the island. right Asayama-san?
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went to pick up Akane-san in the afternoon for some surfing and diving. on the way in, seen the police on jet skis? wow! cool job!
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it’s good to see the police out in the ocean because it’s a very dangerous place. i would run away if i seen one of these guys chasing me! they look like ninjas!
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Akane-san diving deeper than ever. to see this girl going down so relaxed and peaceful, then coming up so calmly, it’s pretty amazing. a newborn amasan!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide