i grew up at sandy beach back in the days. half point was a dream to me. i was so young and such a kook that i had to sit on the inside shoulder watching all the boys rip it up. so i’ve been keeping my eyes on half point. town was pretty much flat today so i chanced it and drove out to the east side solo. i saw 4 perfect waves like this break with only 2 bodyboarders out. shit, i was on it…. and when i was surfing the wave, i couldn’t believe i could catch the sets. gosh, i guess the boys out at sandy’s back in the days traumatized me. the sandy beach boys were nuts…. i took that photo at 9:06am…
even the chicks knew where the best spot on the island was today. oh, when i first pulled up the the empty beach, 2 japanese girls pulled up in their rent-a-car right next to me. when they got out, they ran on the beach jumping and screaming “sugoi, sugoi, kirei”. shit, i wish i shot that. i took a photo for them and it’s been a while since i’ve seen such happy tourists…. only in hawaii….
then i jump into my car and pull up to kewalo’s. the boys were out ripping so i figure, go get some shots…. this is JPSA pro keito masaoka doing the layback snap….
then jason shibata was killing it too… i took much better photos but have to hold out. wait till the mags come out….
this months surf1st cover boy kaito ohashi going left. to the left, to the left…[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:] the boys are here for the contest coming up at bowls this weekend. hope they all do good….
1:02pm. gosh, this is a cool photo. a keeper. nick mita, jason shibata, keito masaoka, u-ske, kazuya sato, kaito ohashi, shuji kasuya, me, and yukiko. no, this is not japan, this is hawaii. and yeah, each and every person in this photo has some connection with hawaii and japan. a connection that brings people together by chance. no, this was not planned, we all met there by chance. that’s the cool thing about surfing, it brings everybody together. gosh, i felt like getting out a grill, a cooler of beers, and putting on “we are family” on my ipod. maybe next time…
