Racism or Nonsense

278

IMG_4499
i was about to delete my SD card getting ready for my trip. luckily i checked before i erased everything. and guess what i found? these precious christmas photos of 2015. it was Mateus’ first ever christmas program at his preschool.
IMG_4504
i would have punched myself in the face if i deleted these. totally priceless! such a cutie!
IMG_4517
imagine coming home from work after a long day, then see this beautiful child in your house. it’s always an amazing feeling. i love this kid.
IMG_8282
stoked to get this photo from Toda-san. made me so happy!
SJAWS
and made me so happy to see Seth Moniz still all over the internet. seeing this makes me want to surf out there too.
a
ok, Gap ran this ad recently and for most people, it is harmless. bur for some, it’s harmful. there was a lot of angry people claiming it is wrong for a white girl to be resting her arm on a black girls head. they say it is like looking down on her. OMG! this is what i think. there are too many people with free time on their hands. people just looking for anything to complain about. in my eyes, this is harmless. people in america are getting out of control.
b
now look at a previous Gap ad on the left. nobody made a complaint about this one????? so what’s wrong with our society? this is nonsense. more people should start surfing!
IMG_8292
i’ve been riding my new board and loving it. then i get a text from Matchi, “put on bigger fins, it will work better.” i get his text late this evening so i speed down to the beach at almost dark, then try it out with bigger fins. and guess what? it worked even better! omg, i got another magic board under my feet! super stoked!
well, gotta pack my bags and get ready for a journey. a journey that starts tomorrow! good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide