Take Risks, Enjoy Rewards!

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i got super hungry last night so took a walk down the street. was freezing cold but i still needed to get some food in my stomach. check out this cool restaurant.
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i ended up walking into a place that looked pretty good from the outside, and it turned out to be even better from the inside. started off with some sashimi and a cold draft beer.
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then i seen these little crabs on the counter. of course i’m going to try it!
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omg, it was so good! just had to be careful because i got poked all inside my mouth when i put this whole thing in there and started chewing.
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i swear japan has the coolest foods ever. i just loved these little crabs.
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then i had to try the raw chicken heart. yes, raw chicken heart. it was freaking delicious!
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then some raw chicken thigh. omg, you would never find something like this in america. and i just love this kind of food.
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my hard disc is full on my computer so i started deleting photos. this was one of them. thought i’d post it before it’s gone. just the other night, i was asked by Dove Wetsuit boss Inomata-san “why do you go to dangerous places?” my answer was “high risk, high return. the thrill of being scared, the thill of taking chances, and the thrill of the experiences outweighs the risks. if this active volcano was erupting like this anywhere else in the world, you wouldn’t be let close to it. but here in guatemala, it’s all up to you how crazy you want to get. it was one of the most challenging experiences in my life and also one of the happiest moments. it was well worth it and i can’t wait for my next challenge in my life. made me grow and made me realize what a beautiful world we live in.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide