Time out to Bad Boys

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i was at dempasar airport when i see a girl that looked so familiar walking my way. i look again and OMG, it was Nao Omura!!! Nao-chan use to stay at my house when she was a young teenager. we surfed some good waves and i watched her grow into a fine young champion surfer. it’s like a reward for me to see these kids becoming so successful in chasing their dreams!
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when i was in the airplane, i was watching an indonesian ship dumping oil into the open ocean. omg, that was so painful to watch. and even if i called the coast guard, nothing would have happened. but if this was in america, we’re talking millions of dollars in fines.
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i was getting a nice relaxing massage in bali when i feel someone approaching me. i look up and see Kimura-san taking photos. haha.
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so when Kimura-san is doing something weird, i take a photo of him. haha. in america, when preschool kids don’t listen, they get sent to stand in the corner. we call this a “time out.” it gives them time to think about what they did wrong. i wonder who gave Kimura-san a “time out?” haha.
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the last night, Kimura-san’s stomach wasn’t feeling too good. he told me it was from the sashimi the night before. but we all know it was from the jacksan the night before. haha. so he could only eat 3 bananas and water for dinner. and watching Atsuko-san laughing was even more funny! haha.
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when i saw this photo, i couldn’t stop laughing. and i still can’t stop laughing. where’s the jacksan? haha.
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i had to leave a day early so i missed out on the golden opportunity to meet our okinawan friends in bali. so stoked to see Kazubo-san, Takahashi-san, and Toshi-san looking very happy! after Takahashi-san left hawaii a few months ago, i bet he’s been training a lot. why? because he lost his stomach! omg, you look good Takahashi-san! anyway, wish i was there with you guys. next time.
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and last, did you see this yet? a SUP and shark accident?
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that must have freaked the guy out!!! haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide