Sumba Lottery Surf Session

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been getting asked a lot about my trip to Nihiwatu. i tell people, it’s not for everyone. first, you either have to have a lot of money, or you have to have very generous friends. it’s a full luxury surf resort and probably the best in the world when it comes to food, quality, service, and waves. if you can afford it, i’d say it’s a must go destination. if you can’t afford it, keep on dreaming and maybe your dream might come true. just like me.
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the resort holds 90 people at full capacity. there were 45 people when we where there. mostly non-surfer tourists. only 10 surfers are allowed in the water per day. it was only us and one or two beginner surfers. so you could paddle to at any time of day and catch any wave you desire. to me, that’s a dream in a dream. and to pick up my magic board from shikoku and ride it for the first time there was so exciting.
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having confidence in your equipment is important. i’ve been riding TSSC surfboards for 23 years so all my boards are tailor made to my surfing. so from the first wave, i’m pretty stoked!
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and to surf with just us was amazing. Kimura-san really liked this spot. just perfect lineups with perfect lefts peeling all day long. this day, we surfed 3 rounds. great surfing Kimura-san!
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i met Mori-san a couple of years ago in taiwan and now we’re surfing together deep in indonesia. it’s so cool how surfing connects people from all around the world. good to see you Mori-san!
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and Matsu being one of my first japanese friends. 24 years of surfing together and our solid friendship continues. thanks for being a great roommate Matsu!
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so to sum up Nihiwatu. definitely a place i want to visit again. and ever since i got back, i’ve been dreaming of what i’d do if i won a million dollar lottery. i’d book the whole resort for a week. call my closest 70 friends in the world, invite them, and invite 20 lucky strangers and show them our wonderful world. that is my dream! so if i win a million bucks, be ready for the call!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide