ok, 7 days of sickness. i’m finally 100%. want to know how i know? because i woke up this morning at 4am feeling like a little kid again. then i went to yoga, surfed for 4.5 hours, and finally got to laugh without my stomach hurting so much. feels great to be back! yeah!
wow! the waves came up today! it was perfect!!! Nanami-san on the big one! day 2 and getting so good already. i could see the stoke in her eyes!
great balance and great listener. look forward and bend your knees. perfection!
towards the end of our session, she got on the 9’0 and surfed it so well. now at this level, surfing only gets more and more interesting.
happy face on the way in on this beautiful day in hawaii. then i paddled back out and surfed another 2.5 hours totaling 4.5 hours of fun in the sun.
i can’t believe Prince died!!! omg! every song of his brings back some kind of good old memory. Prince might be gone but his music will be alive forever.
south swell coming up tomorrow. see you in the water.
