Zippy's or Ocean?

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i took this little girl surfing and guess what? i was more nervous than her. her mom told me that she’s scared of the ocean. so it’s a huge responsibly for me to do my best to have her love the ocean just as much as her mom. to tell you the truth, a kid can either love the ocean, or hate it. it’s all up to the experience. so getting the nerves out of her before she caught her first wave was the key. and once the nerves are gone, the rest is easy. how can you not smile when riding on the ocean! great job Sango-chan!!!
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in the beginning, Sango-chan was scared. and as she caught more and more waves, her confidence went up. she was surfing better and better after each ride. very impressive.
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and the facial expressions she made. it was so cute! a little 12 year old girl just being a little girl. so pure!
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by the end of the day, Sango-chan was catching some big waves. it’s just that she didn’t know how big it was because i told her “don’t look behind!” haha. but the bigger wave she rode, the bigger the smile was.
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i met Sango-chan in the parking lot before we surfed and she didn’t want to smile because she was full of nerves. but the end of the day, she was full of smiles. to me, this is a huge reward for me. it’s like my dream coming true. to share the ocean and teach kids how to have a good time in nature is awesome. now i’m sure Sango-chan will continue surfing. in fact, when we where paddling in, she told me “ahhh, now i can’t go to zippy’s on the weekends.” i asked “why?” she said “because i rather surf.” haha. hope to see Sango-chan and her zippy’s friends down at the beach on the weekends. oh, when i downloaded this photo, i had a tear rolling down my face. seeing this little girl so stoked made me so joyful!
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and for a girl that doesn’t like to take photos, she sure has the cutest smile ever. great job Sango-chan! see you in the water with mom and dad!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide