Simply Touch a Rainbow

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good to be back in hawaii. once again, you seriously have to leave here to appreciate it more. i was only gone for 8 days but now that i’m home, everything seems new to me again. i had a year full of trips planned, but now that has changed. for 2016, i’m only going to travel between japan and hawaii. other parts of the world will have to wait because i don’t want food poisoning again. and i don’t want terrorist explosions, nor the zika virus. going to simplify the year by just going to japan to eat good food, meet my wonderful family and friends, and chase a couple of typhoons if the timing is right. going to live simply in 2016 and looking forward to it.
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had an awesome time surfing with Ikai-san yesterday afternoon. it’s been a while for her but she did great! it’s impossible to forget how to surf!
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after a few adjustments, she was surfing perfectly. so stoked to see the stoke come back!
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great job surfing Ikai-san! keep on surfing!
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then we drove up the mountain to catch the best view in the world.
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looking out to waikiki, i have mixed feelings. yes, it’s a beautiful view, but to see hotel after hotel going up and up, i wonder when it will ever stop? i use to come up here in high school and i could actually see the waves. now, you can only see concrete. pretty sad for a surfer.
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then the rainbow showed up and washed away all the sad thoughts. it came so close that you could almost touch it. it was amazing!
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then drove by beautiful diamond head. another view that takes your breath away. i could sit here all day watching the waves, surfers, whales, boats, and wind. so peaceful and so natural.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide