another day of surfing and surfing. 5 hours in the ocean riding so many beautiful waves! it’s going to be like this for the next month and i’m just hoping my skin doesn’t peel off my body. it’s so hot and i’m totally sunburnt!
had an awesome time with 14 year old Riku-kun this morning. a young kid from Fukuoka that wants to become a professional surfer. i don’t know too many surfers from Fukuoka so i was excited to surf with him.
the waves were perfect again so i took him out to the premier spot on the south shore, Ala Moana Bowls. there is a big hawaii state amateur contest this weekend so all the kids from all the islands are out practicing. i told Riku-kun, “these are hawaii’s top. watch them closely and show them what you can do.”
so i followed Riku-kun on his first wave. i thought he was going to do a floater then all of a sudden, i see him hit the lip and rip it! wow! very impressive!
after he finished this turn, i told him “hey, you’re a good surfer. i’m super impressed.”
then we rode more as i watched him surf so good. some of my friends at bowls was asking me who this kid was. i told them, “a young kid from fukuoka that surfs really good.” they all agreed. awesome surfing Riku-kun!
then we were both hungry after surfing 3 long hours. so it was a hawaiian style locomoco that we both loved.
then i went to show him the lineup of diamond head and how to paddle out correctly.
i’m amazed how smart this kid is. he’s only 14 years old but is more mature than my friends in their 40’s. haha. every time i explained something to Riku-kun, i could see him listening very carefully and absorbing every word. anyone wants to be me a million dollars this kid will become a professional surfer before he’s 18? i guarantee that.
omg, lighthouse looked super good today. only a few guys surfing overhead waves. i can feel the summer already beginning and i kind of love it.
want to thank the Kawamura-san family for the cake! i love this! see you all tomorrow morning for a fun day in the ocean!
