good morning. 6am on this beautiful monday morning. had a great weekend? hope so. i went to the rokkasho rhaposdy event yesterday and wow!!! what an eye opener. learned a lot about the nuclear plant in aomori and i left feeling a little down. i felt sorry for the japanese people that protested the project because it was like nobody was listening to them. could that happen here in hawaii? i hope not. but it’s scary just thinking about it. i can go on and on right now about this topic but will come back to it later. just wanted to thank ryo kubota and surdfrider foundation for getting the word out. and thanks ryo for the tshirt and avocados. see you in the water…
oh yeah, the waves. ummm, looking small but looking fun. chest/shoulder high in town with a lot of surfers out. light winds and this swell supposed to linger all week until a bigger swell hits around the 20th. heading to the airport to pick up a famous japanese pig hunter…
news out of bali. ketut “mega” semadhi is the first balinese surfer to win the billabong pro junior. it happened yesterday at kuta reef in bali. how sick is that? garut winning last week, now mega winning this week. the two hottest groms out of bali are living up their expectations… i’m so stoked for them….
if you don’t know who mega is. he’s the grom out of dreamland that boosts the biggest airs. the first time he came to hawaii and stayed with me, i took him and garut out to bowls. they were 15 years old at the time and they were turning heads. well, until mega stepped on vana and had 20 break off in his foot. he went in pretty worried. why? because there’s no vana in bali so he didn’t know what the heck was in his feet hurting so much… that was pretty funny…
