opps, another blog i forgot to hit the publish button. i must have fell asleep on my computer again. anyway, here it is.
Nanami-san surfed with me 8x this trip to hawaii. she’s gotten so good now that she’s riding the high performance 9’0 very easily. that’s exactly where she wants to be. now all she has to do it master it. after this wave, i tried to take off next to her to get a photo. she fell and i thought her board was going to chop off my head. it was a close call!!!
in the morning, i tried the same thing with Shintaro-san. trying to get close for the photo riding on the side. this can be dangerous because if he falls, you have a thick surfboard coming to you like a knife. this time, it chopped me in my knee. just like this! and yes, it hurts.
then another wave the board almost hit my head. haha. this happens to me all the time and i just laugh. but someday, the odds will it be hitting me square in the face. it’s just simple statistics.
then in the afternoon when Nanami-san’s longboard almost cut my head off, i told myself “stop, take a break from putting yourself in danger.” so i stopped. three times in one day was enough. but i’m sure i’ll be doing the same thing tomorrow. that’s just me.
anyway, back to surfing. great job Nanami-san. have a great trip back home and see you again this summer!
just love long boarding these days. can catch so many waves and explore different things.
i’ve been asked over and over. “where is your next trip?” usually i say “i don’t know.” but this time, i know because the only place i’d rather be right now than hawaii is JAPAN! so as soon as i get at least 3 days off, i’m going to jump on an airplane! when will i get 3 days off next? i really don’t know. but just the fact of me going to japan makes me excited!
