spent another 6 hours surfing today. that’s 42 hours/week! omg! maybe that’s why i’m so burnt?
the morning session was so fun! watching Shintaro-san just get better and better. and happier and happier. he’s actually taking the drop and doing a bottom turn. that’s amazing progress!
we were laughing out loud in the ocean today and i’m sure people must think we’re crazy! haha. nice style Shintaro-san!
look how perfect the waves were! just super fun and long rides.
then some obake or freak sets came once in a while. i would yell from the top of the wave, “throw your board and swim under!!!” look how small Shintaro-san is compared to this wave. the only way to learn how to do this is by experience. oh what an experience! haha.
then it was Saori-san’s turn. super confidence for the other day so she wanted to ride bigger waves. now i know for sure she is totally hooked on surfing. that’s so cool!
this is how you are supposed to have fun while you surf. ride a beautiful wave, stand up, and enjoy the ride to the fullest. i get so happy looking at the happy faces all day long.
great job Saori-san. see you guys tomorrow. more waves, more laughs, and more smiles. oh, took Fujimoto-san for a surf in the afternoon. more great waves, great smiles, and great photos. stay tuned.
last, heard about the lady who is suing starbucks for putting too much ice in her coffee? yeah, she’s suing them for $5 million!!! omg! and guess what? i bet she will win at least $2 million. why? because another lady sued mcdonalds $2 million for making her coffee too hot. and she won. welcome to america! getting rich the dirty way. i don’t respect people like that at all.
