6 hours of surfing today. sunburnt but very happy.
i woke up early and checked the waves. OMG! bigger and better than yesterday. went to bowls and couldn’t find parking. then i thought to myself “let’s get barreled today!” so i jumped on Mayuki and headed to Big Rights.
i pull up and there were only 6 guys in the water. what??? jumped in and got barreled on almost every wave. it was totally perfect conditions! surfed for 2 hours and came back in, went home to eat lunch, took a nap, then went back out to surf again.
then picked up Yoshida-san and asked him “are you ready for today?” he said “yes, i will go anywhere you take me.” so we jump back on Mayuki and head straight back to Big Rights. i knew 100% it was going to be good! i told Yoshida-san to sit right next to me. and when i go on a set, just drop in and get the ride of your life.
the waves were pretty big. the biggest he’s ever surfed so i could tell he was nervous. i take off and yell “GO!” he takes off and falls. then falls again. the waves so strong that it rips his wetsuit right off his back, over his head, and ties up his hands. he was kind of freaking out. then he tells me, “NO, I CANNOT!” i say “YES, YOU CAN, LET’S GO AGAIN!”
then the next big set comes, i take off, and yell “GO!” he takes off and pulls into the barrel!!! OMG! i was tripping out! i tell him, “OMG, YOU JUST GOT BARRELED!” he said “really?” haha. Yoshida-san was so nervous that he didn’t even know he was in the barrel.
look at this beautiful barrel riding! after this wave and a few more good ones after, he was pretty happy.
on the way home, he told me “i’ll probably be dreaming tonight about my waves today.” i’m sure he will be dreaming forever about today. the biggest and best surf in his life. not to mention, the best rides of his life. so stoked for him! great job Yoshida-san!
i got over 10 barrels in the morning, and over 10 barrels in the afternoon. a very satisfied day for me. it’s my first good day for this summer and i can’t wait for the next swell.
welcome to my office. in here, nobody will bother you, nothing will bother you, and you will have the best moment of your life. i wish i could live in here!
big south swell continues tomorrow! yeah!
