i was telling Yoshida-san yesterday “this is what surfers dream of. waves like this with only a few people out taking turns getting barreled. perfect light off shore winds and calm seas. this is exactly like a perfect day in indonesia!” you couldn’t have asked for more.
so good to see my longtime friend Cedric Nishimura out there. we were talking about our trip to Kauai back in the 1980’s when we scored perfect waves. super good guy with super good stories.
i went under a wave and seen my friend Travis’s fins right under my face.
i had my gopro in my mouth so here is the view from the barrel. i wish i could explain to you better how good it feels in a barrel. and how better i feels when you make it out. something you just have to experience on your own. and when you do, you will understand that the feeling is unexplainable.
then paddling out watching perfect empty barrels go unridden. it makes you appreciate nature much more.
i’ve been trying to hold the plank pose for long periods of time. if i can get to hold this pose for 30 minutes, i will achieve my goal. but for now, it’s only 30 seconds. haha. try it and feel the pain.
omg, watched this chick named Angela Lee fight the other night. she’s the girl on the left. 19 years old and from Mililani, Oahu. amazing talent this young girl has. and now she’s chasing her dreams and making it to the top. so stoked to see local talent making it big worldwide.
was at diamond head the other day checking the waves. then was looking at the landscape on the mountain. very clean, no rubbish, nice shower, stairs, plants, and flowers. no, the state of hawaii workers didn’t do this, the local surfers did. and the local surfers upkeep this place all the time. so cool to see things like this happening in hawaii.
