another beautiful day in paradise. super good surf and waves for every level of surfing. headed out with Mai-san this morning. stopped by bowls to check out the action. looked pretty fun, but way to crowded for us.
gosh, it was so beautiful! went looking for a perfect shoulder high wave for us and found one with nobody out. so lucky to surf with nobody else on a sunday.
this is Mai-san’s first wave ever in hawaii! perfect take off!
then she put the board on the rail and rode the perfect point right hander. gosh, her first wave was so perfect!
good ride so she was stoked! i can’t believe Mai-san only surfed for 3 years. she must have some good teachers back in Akita, Japan.
a smile like this says it all. so happy!
then we went looking for turtles because she’s never seen one before. and guess what? they were home!
it must be a trip to see a turtle for the first time yeah? i remember the first time i seen a turtle. my step father brought it home alive in a bag, cut the head off, cleaned the meat, and cooked it for us for dinner. i was only 7 years old so imagine how traumatized i was. maybe that’s why i love to see turtles swimming so freely now?
ate a poke bowl for lunch. Mai-san asked me if ahi is called “sea chicken” in english. haha. after the laughs, we headed to the east side to check out the surf and nature. it was so beautiful today. thank you Mai-san for the wonderful day!
watching bowls from the channel is the best. you can see deep into the barrel and see the expressions on the surfers face. everybody is so stoked the first real swell was a really good one.
we went to check out diamond head on the way back and the waves were so beautiful!
